Finally, after much waiting and wishing, the surf went from flat to a gorgeous shoulder-high. In the winter season here, the water gets colder, the days get windier, and I find surfing at sunset the most pleasant time to surf. We went out around 4:30-ish, the tide was pretty high, and the left point breakand beach break were both looking beautiful. I paddled out on my 5’8 little fish shaped by ‘Pronto,’ a guy who lives here in town. Surprisingly not that crowded for a Sunday, there were plenty of waves for everyone, and I even caught some random rights that were shaping up. All of a sudden, a guy sitting on the outside starts making a bird-call type thing and making praying gestures* to the ocean.
*Now don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with being spiritual and thanking Mother Earth for all of her goodness, but while he was making bird-calls to summon waves that were already coming in consistently, he was missing some choice waves. Hey, I guess whatever floats your board…
Related posts:
