Do you sometimes feel lazy, depressed, fat and worthless? Has it been awhile since your last surf sesh? If so, you may be experiencing what I like to call “surfer’s withdrawal”, i.e. that sh*tty feeling that overcomes you when you haven’t surfed in awhile. It may be caused by extremely flat surf, busy-and-important-morning-to-night-type days, or just being burnt out on surfing (what?!?!). After some time (for me it’s about a week) you start to notice the symptoms: gazing longingly at anything that resembles a wave (sometimes even gazing at water if you are really bad), the feeling of just pure laziness (this is when I start to feel like a fat pig), and then the depression kicks in. There is only one cure for surfer’s withdrawal: a nice, long, amazing surf sesh.
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Preach the gospel! For an myriad number of reasons, I haven’t surfed since mid-September. I’ve been bordering on abject apathy/lethargy and near homicidal fervor to get wet… At any rate, come hell or high-water (preferably) I’m surfing this weekend. I’ve been hearing inspiring stories about missed sessions and such…so much, it’s enough to make a grown man cry. AARGGHHH! For the simplicity of a nice break……
must suck I live in the tropics and if the waves are flat here on the pacific I just drive an hour to the Caribbean and get some over there