I really have to tip my hat to those hipsters at Vice Magazine. Their surfing show–Hi Shredability–routinely puts up engaging and refreshing videos on surfing and surfers. But this most recent video, Searching for Montauk, is timeless. And I don’t want to give all the credit to the producers because the surfer on the journey makes it a classic surfing story.
As all surf stories begin, there is rumor of an epic swell, a swell that only hits every five years. The only way to know if the waves will be 20 feet tall is to embark on a solo journey–even if you only have a 5’10″ in the back of your van–a journey through the night to a spot you may never have surfed, where probably no one is out or will every be out. The fear of large waves and the anticipation of them coming plague your night and rob you of any sleep. The morning comes and proves that the rumors and your fears are true. The long hard road of failure amasses in front of you and it seems as if there will be no pay off for all your hard work.
But, this timeless story is timeless because it has a happy ending. There is a pay off for all your hardwork.
Admittedly this sounds a little cheesey, but I do think in a small way this story reminds us of the shared experiences we all have as surfers: Searching for Montauk.
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Fuck, tell me about it.