How to Surf Big Waves on a Log, Tips from a Pro

Although longboards are generally associated with small wave surfing, taking your longboard out in surf over 6 feet can be great fun.  The speed and drive you get with 9 feet of rail in the water is exhilarating.  However with all that rail edge to control, a lot of things can go wrong…  So preparation is the key.  Photo above of Lee Ryan courtesy of Simon Williams www.swilly.com.au

Before you paddle out, make sure you have studied the conditions for at least 20 minutes.  In particular:

• Look for rips and channels to help you get out.
• How many waves are there in a set?
• Is the first, third or fourth wave the best of the set?
• How long is there between sets?
• Are you fit enough?
• Can I hold my breath long enough if I wipeout?
• Before you paddle out, ask yourself, “If my leash snapped, would I be fit enough to swim in?”  If the answer is no, don't paddle out.

Big wave surfing is all about the take off or “the drop” as we call it.  It is important to use the extra length of your board to your advantage by paddling into the wave nice and early so that you are performing your bottom turn before the wave has pitched.  Stay low at the top of the wave and have a slightly wider stance than normal to aid balance.  Around 70% of your weight should be on your front foot to help draw the board down the face.

Lee Ryan getting in nice and early; Photos courtesy of Simon Williams www.swilly.com.au

As you get midway down the face of the wave, gradually start shifting your weight towards the back of the board in preparation for your bottom turn.  Try not to look down over your front knee as this could cause the board to nosedive.  Keep your head up and try and read the wave at least 20ft in front of you.

“You have to pick your line quicker.  Keep in mind that you have a 9ft longboard that won’t go places a shortboard can – every manoeuvre has to be drawn out” –Jye Byrnes, Pro Longboarder & Shaper www.thesurffactory.com.au.

“Always paddle really hard when taking off in big waves.  One stroke more than you think you need.” — Harley Ingleby, 2009 ASP World Champion

Jye Byrnes takes the high line – Photo: Simon Williams www.swilly.com.au.

“Keep an eye on the horizon and once up and riding.  Stay low, as any chop in the face will bounce you off as you're travelling much faster.” — Ben “Skindog” Skinner, 2009 European Champion

With the increased speed you get from the power of the wave, you need to adjust the timing of your manoeuvres.  You will almost have too much speed going into some turns, especially after you have just dropped into the wave.  The more speed you have, the more manoeuvrable your board will be.

“In bigger waves, you need to slow your surfing down a little.  You don’t have to push off your turns as much, as the power is already in the wave” –Josh Constable.

Want to learn more great tips and manoeuvres then check out Volume 2 of “A Shortcut to Longboarding” now with video clips!! www.shortcuttolongboarding.com