Author Archives: Surfing HQ

Boardshort Giveaway!! Nagare Boardshorts

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Tis’ the season of sick giveaways for our readers, and this time we are giving away boardshorts by Nagare!!  Nagare is a new boardshort & surf apparel company.

The rules to enter are simple, join our new Stoke Community at www.dailystoke.com and post a blog or comment (best comments win).  To enter the contest now click here.

You can learn more about Nagare here.

Surf DVD Giveaway!!! from DailyStoke.com

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To celebrate our new website design and all of its great new features we are giving away DVDs to 3 great surf movies listed below.  Check out www.dailystoke.com to enter to win!!

  • Ultimate Sessions: Ultimate Sessions is a compilation from eight of the best surf movies including Morning of the Earth, Fluid Drive, Cosmic Children, Amazing Surf Stories, Ocean Fever, September Sessions and more. It includes interviews with the surfers who made the films like Jeff Hakman and Jack Johnson. Watch this and learn why you surf the way you do.
  • Tomorrow Today: TransWorld SURFs own creation Tomorrow Today contains the most progressive surfing ever captured on film. The film fuses animated dream sequences into reality, where each surfer performs his repertoire of unbelievable tricks. Tomorrow Today bridges the gap between the present and the future.  The film features best career performances to date from Dane Reynolds, Bobby Martinez, Mike Losness, Yadin Nicol, and the futuristic talents of Clay Marzo.
  • Sunny Daze: Director Jamie Mosberg and Sunny began work on the film well before the long-awaited and well-deserved world title, but the victory makes it that much sweeter. And like all good stories, it’s more about the people than anything else.   The actor who plays a janitor of Waianae High almost manages to steal the show when he says, “What? Everybody know me. I leave my cigarettes right there and then go out and rip” in pidgin so thick there’s subtitles. Homegrown comedy, to be sure.  And he’s just one of the classic Hawaiians who talk about Sunny’s past — you get Jason Magallenes’ sandbox observations about Sunny’s childhood penchant for making funny sounds with cupped hands. Just think: one of the most feared competitors in the world makes loonie sounds.

Surf Forecasting Technology – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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DailyStoke.com: How do you feel that forecasting technology will advance in the future? Or are we at the…uhh…peak now? How do you feel that forecasting technology is changing the surf culture?

Socalsurf.com: I think we are a long way from the “peak” of forecasting technology. Just like every form of technology…Forecasting technology is going to get more and more sophisticated and refined in the future. Computers are going to continue to get faster and be able to process more, we are going to get better and more specific satellites, more flexible ocean sensors, and probably even find new ways to use the older technology that we already have in place. It will allow us as forecasters to get more relevant and timely data, tighten up the predictability of the swell/wind models, and generally create more accurate long-range forecasts.

Forecasts and technology are changing surf culture…no doubt about it…at the end of the day everyone wants to get good waves…and they want to be able to plan for it. I think that forecasting tech is allowing surfers to get more strategic…An average surfer in Southern California has sooo much going on (work, family, chores, commuting, more work) that being able to get a little heads up on decent conditions and swell helps them clear the plate a little, maximize the fun-time if you will. I think that this will just become more refined as technology advances.

Adam Wright runs www.socalsurf.com and is a professional
meteorologist. He’s been a surf forecaster since 1999, and covers SoCal and Baja for Wavewatch.com as well as the weekly snow and surf outlooks for Fuel.tv. DailyStoke happens to think there is no better resource online to understanding waves, in plain English, than
Socalsurf.com. Learn more there, now!

Surf Forecasting Resources for Regular Surfers – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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Over the coming days, we’ll be profiling the work of Adam Wright, from SoCal Surf Forecast. Adam was cool enough to answer a series of questions from our writers, all about surf forecasts. Here goes!

DailyStoke.com: It’s one thing to follow a surfing forecast site like yours, religiously, but it’s quite another to understand in great detail the information that is presented there. Do you have any suggested resources for surfers who want to figure it out for themselves, or at least better understand the services you provide? We’ve reviewed the Surf Science book and Wetsand’s Surf Forecasting Book.

Socalsurf.com: I am all for people getting into forecasting for themselves… in fact I encourage it on my sites…it is always super cool to see surfers become more connected and passionate about forecasting, and in the end I think it makes people better surfers or at least have more fun, which is what this sport is supposed to be about.

Like you mentioned there are a few books out there that sort of go over the mechanics of forecasting, but they sort of assume that you have the basic vocabulary and terminology already. I think that it is important to build a “basic weather” foundation, where you understand where and why wind blows, how atmospheric pressure works…things like that. I have a post on the blog that helps to cover some of the specific forecasting basics.

Generally, if I know that someone is interested in forecasting but is starting from scratch, I recommend that they spend some time watching the weather channel, and the nightly weather forecasts on the news. Yeah some of them are super cheesy and pretty dumbed down but they do get you familiar with the meteorology terms and basic weather patterns. Talking a basic oceanography, physical geography, or intro to meteorology college/Junior-college course is another great way to get a lot of the terminology.

Once you understand the basics then those surf forecasting books, and sites like mine, suddenly make a lot more sense…you start to see where we are coming from an information standpoint and you can make the intuitive leaps that you sometimes need to put together “weather” with “marine/surf forecasting”.

Resource-wise the internet has a grip of information about weather forecasting, understanding weather patterns, oceanography, meteorology , hydrography. You can find anything…all the way up through PHD level information (big brain stuff)…you just jump on Google and there it is. The hard part is learning what you need to look for…once you have the basic idea down it gets a lot easier to refine your search for more info.

Adam Wright runs www.socalsurf.com and is a professional
meteorologist. He’s been a surf forecaster since 1999, and covers SoCal and Baja for Wavewatch.com as well as the weekly snow and surf outlooks for Fuel.tv. DailyStoke happens to think there is no better resource online to understanding waves, in plain English, than Socalsurf.com. Learn more there, now!

DailyStoke.com Has a New Look!!

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We have a new look!  We redesigned our site to bring you even more stoke.  To celebrate, we will be having one big mofo of a giveaway session.  Over the next few months, we will be giving away some cool stuff including surf gear, boardshorts, DVDs, books and more….you can see these giveaways on the front page of our new site.

Some of Dailystoke’s new features:

The Stoke Community which is a new online community for surfers (only surfers will be allowed to join!).

Members will be able to:

  • Speak your mind!  Post your own blogs on our site (YouBlog)
  • Join groups, which will include groups for Surfers, Surf Gear Companies, Filmmakers, Musicians, Artists, Photographers, Writers, Surf Shops & Schools, and Shapers
  • Connect with surfers and others in the community
  • Post surf-related events & announcements
  • Join the Surf Marketplace where Filmmakers, Artists, Musicians, and Photographers can post their stuff and spread the stoke to all

Check out the new site, it was a lot of work, so we hope y’all like it.

Surfing Barbados – paradise found

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The world headquarters for Malibu Rum sits on the west coast of Barbados, 100 feet from the Caribbean sea. The water there is flat as lake, as if the surfing gods punished the spot for knocking off the name of a secret spot in California. And while Malibu rum is no Barbados treaure, plenty of surfing treasures can be found on the island. Just up the coast is Duppies. A diagonal shot across the island is the world class Soup Bowl. As if that’s not enough, Malibu (in reverse) can be found with the left at Freights Bay, which, when breaking, will be more Malibu than Malibu rum will ever be. Such is surfing in Barbados – a break for every swell, and a wave for every surfer. And to top it off, you’ll need only tropical surf wax.

Barbados sits some 13 degress off the equator, a couple of hundred miles north of Venezuela. The west coast faces Central America, and the east coast is the Atlantic ocean. Soup Bowl sits on the east coast, with its jagged reef permanently being bashed by huge swell. Frequently blown out, and frequently overhead or more, Soup Bowl is where every Barbadian surfer wants to be.

Says Christian Boos, instructor at Zed’s Surfing Adventures and 2008 Barbados Longboarding Champ: “Soup Bowl is an excellent break, if inconistent.”

And while driving on the left takes some getting used to, you’ll be happy to have made the trip even further south than Puerto Rico for decidedly uncrowded waves, generally perfect weather and all the premium rum you’d want with Mount Gay Eclipse.

I don’t even know how to spell Corilois – Misunderstandings about Surf Forecasting – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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DailyStoke.com: What is the most frequently misunderstood element of surf forecasting made by regular surfers who are trying to understand the forecasts?

Socalsurf.com: That is sort of a hard one to pin down…there are a lot of confusing concepts in forecasting… How swell direction (and swell period) interact with local geography and bathometry is usually something that is hard for people to wrap their heads around. It is one of those, “wait…what do you mean that this spot breaks on a 290-degree swell…but only part of the time? I hate you Adam”, type of concepts.

Really though I think that the “swell model” is one of the most misleading aspects of surf forecasting. Most people look at NOAA’s Wavewatch-III in some form or another…usually it is in some sort of map-image or graph form. While it is mostly accurate there are some weaknesses to it. For one if it gets bad data, say a storm doesn’t produce as much wind as it is forecasting, then the whole output is corrupted…every forecast that would have been affected by that storm is now wrong…they may adjust the model on the next forecast run but if you only look at the output every 24 hours then you could completely miss or overcall a swell.

Another thing to watch is the “output point” itself…some people try to look at models that aren’t showing geographically relevant data…so for example someone in Santa Barbara looks at someone’s pretty graph, which is generated using a point just offshore of Oceanside. In the summer it would show lots of Southern Hemi swell that would never hit the beach thanks to the Channel Islands.

Lastly is that the model doesn’t really account for nearshore shoaling…it gives you a pretty decent deepwater wave height but it won’t do a great job of showing what the actual rideable size will be when it hits the beach.

Don’t get me wrong…overall it is usually a very good resource for surf forecasting but it can’t be the only tool that you use. Always try to back up the model with empirical data from satellites, buoys, and observed conditions.

Adam Wright runs www.socalsurf.com and is a professional
meteorologist. He’s been a surf forecaster since 1999, and covers SoCal and Baja for Wavewatch.com as well as the weekly snow and surf outlooks for Fuel.tv. DailyStoke happens to think there is no better resource online to understanding waves, in plain English, than Socalsurf.com. Learn more there, now!

Seen on Craigslist – Surfboard Bag Shoulder Strap for $10!

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It never ceases to amaze what people will do to earn surfing gas money. On Craigslist, you can get some sweet deals. It’s the tool of choice for selling a used surfboard. Apparently for a Santa Monica surfer, it’s also a place to sell a Surfboard Bag Shoulder Strap for $10. In case – you know – you lost yours. Comes with a free bar of Tropical Sex Wax! Actually, no it doesn’t, but you kinda half expect to be comped.

Isle Surfboards: An interview with DailyStoke.com

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If you go to Google, and type in the word surfboard, you’d be surprised at what you’ll find. The usual suspects won’t show up. Channel Islands? Lost? Rusty? No, the winner is Isle Surfboards, a company you may never have heard of, but your local beginner surfer will have. They’ve been pioneers in selling boards online and have been at it since 2004. Beginners surfer will find refuge in their product offerings; purists will call them out for putting more boards in the water.

The San Diego-based company has been very successful at serving the market they’ve targeted – surfers who want a decent quality board without blowing a ton of coin. They’ve got ten models, ranging from chip to tanker and a lot in between. Perhaps predictably, Isle Surfboards sells a lot to beginner surfers.

The boards are shaped and glassed in China. As any surfer knows, local shapers are fiercely critical of the practice. “I totally understand the concern, but at the quality and price point we’re trying to achieve, there’s just no choice.” What of putting more surfers in the water because of longboards that can be had for around $400? Doug is unfazed. “The truth is that there will be more people in the water anyways.” Hard to argue. On the lighter side, Doug has surfed China. “We got to this point break called Big Wave Bay in Hong Kong. The water was 80 degrees, and there were 30 not so great surfers in the water. And then the two white guys showed up,” he laughs.

“We’ve really focused on our online strategy,” says Doug. And while a few years ago, you might find dealers carrying Isle boards, a flood of entrants with a similar model has changed the game. “After that, we decided to really just focus on selling directly to our customers.”

http://www.islesurfboards.com/

KOOK by Peter Heller, Book Review

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“You f%cking kook, get out of the water!…were you born on planet kook?!”.  The answer is yes, at least initially.  This book was written by a Kook, Peter Heller is his name.  He never surfed a day in his life until he was 45yrs old and after getting yelled at (above) after snaking some dudes at Huntington Beach, he hits the road for 2 months.  He surfs every day, mostly in Mexico and ends up at Mex Pipe, aka Puerto Escondido and then the question is he is surfer, or just a guy that surfs….or is it the journey that matters?

This book is mostly notes from a surf travel journal, which are always cool, especially Mexico: the good food, the random people met, the beer that is never warm enough, the stories, and why does the rig always — always — break down? 

Anyway, Kook and his crew start learning at Huntington Surf & Sport, then hit Mexico for 2 months (La Fonda, Todos Santos, Punta Conejo, Scorpion Bay with stops at Pescadero Surf Camp)…some stuff happens on the way…and in the end Nathan Meyers at Surfer Mag sums it up by advising him “surfing is not conquered in 6 months…it’s a life path.”  Well said, and the Kook learns this important lesson. 

One other thing we like is that Peter and his crew come to appreciate the impact development is having on our coastlines.  They do some good things, including meeting up with Ric O’Barry www.savejapandolphins.org and spend time getting to know, and surfing with, James Pribram, who won the John Kelly Environmental Achievement Award back in 2007.

You can check out the book here: http://books.simonandschuster.com/Kook/Peter-Heller/9780743294201

I can’t believe they had the balls to make the drop on those logs

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Some vintage footage of surfers at Sunset, Pipe, Waiamea in the 1960s, including George Downing, Ricky Grigg, Greg Noll and Mike Doyle. As the narrator says a couple of looooooong rides into this video: “And that’s what you call really getting stoked.” Stoked indeed. This surfing vid is a beaut. The best part is watching what appears to be Greg Noll doing a drop-knee turn on his surfboard. At Pipe.

Time Lapse surfboard shaping is really, really cool

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Watching a surfboard get shaped is pretty fun – it just goes to show you what goes into to making a custom made surfboard. There’s! a! lot! of! flipping!! This time lapse shaping vid is brought to you by Rick Malwitz surfboards.

How to make a longboard – out wood, starring Greg Noll, Doc Ball, LeRoy Grannis and Lorrin Harrison

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Wow. This vid is pretty awesome for those into surfing nostalgia. (And we all are, ain’t we!). Here you’ll see a bunch of old guys (old guys rule blah blah blah) carving, literally, a log out of…a log. They even start the project with a massive chisel. This vid must be from the mid-80s or so, starring Doc Ball, LeRoy Grannis and Lorrin Harrison (and Greg Noll, the big guy.) The music is about as old as the combined age of these guys. Anyway, check it out:

1962-63 Hobie Longboard Possibly Shaped by Mike Hynson

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There’s all sorts of cool shiz on Craigslist this time of year, but this one takes the cake – a very cool story follows. This guy in San Diego is selling a 1962 Hobie Alter Longboard, pictures shown here.

The size is roughly 9″8″. Says our intrepid Craigslist seller: “When I got this board I was just looking for a vintage rider, what I ended up with is likely something else. When I looked at the number on the stringer (as pictured below) I noticed an “H” had been carved in the stringer long with the number. I know a bit about surf history and realized that, as far as I knew, the only person shaping for Hobie at the time with an “H” in his name was Mike Hynson. Is this possible, I thought. To check it out I went to a friend of mine who did a lot of business with Hobie. He arranged for us to go down to the Hobie factory in Dana Point and meet up with Terry Martin who has been working and shaping there since around 1964. Mr. Martin was gracious enough to give us his time and take a look at the board for me. Terry told us that the board was made before he got there in 1964. He said Mike did a lot of shaping there before he left in late 1963 to film the Endless Summer.The fin on the board also seemed to lean a lot more to the style of the board mike surfed in the endless summer. The Lam and the serial number also matched the period. In addition, Hobie Atler himself really was not doing much shaping anymore at the shop and that was the only other “H” he could think of that shaped there from the period. Terry’s final conclusion was that Mike had most likely shaped the board, but there was no real way to be sure. And that’s the story of this board. A vintage 1962-63 Hobie possibly shaped by Mike Hynson.”

All of this to say – no matter who shaped this board, be it Mike Hyson or Hobie himself, this is a pretty damn cool piece of surfing history.

I’ve got a Woody

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The Ford Woody is a dream surf-mobile. Picture Malibu in the early 50s, with nobody – nobody – on the waves on most days. I mean, this is before the Endless Summer. If you want to relive some of that, you can, for only $99,500. Ford Woodies in good shape go for that much these days. I’ve seen a couple in and around ‘Bu before. You half expect Dora to pop out the back.
Anyway – check out the notstalgia shots here, along with a shot from Noosa Longboards in Australia – they rent one out. Strap your stick up top.