there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

JD Surfer

Surfing - Elements of Style by Jay DiMartino

Surfing “style” is something that fades in and out of popularity every five or ten years. That same “shabby,” “trashy” ensemble your girlfriend asks you to take off before going out can suddenly become a fashion spread in next month’s GQ.
Landlocked preppies and street kids easily purchase surf style, drop it in a sack, and [...]

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