there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Julia is Stoked

I'm originally from California, graduated from UC Irvine. I love to surf (obviously), cook, paint/draw/woodburn, snowboard and play music. I sing and write songs and play guitar and piano, solo and in a band called Los Tikkilyches!

Buena Onda

I just want to say how nice it is when there is a good vibe in the water. In Mexico, we call it “una buena onda.” You can call people or different things “buena onda” and even say it as a, “Thank you so much, you’re so sweet!” = “Gracias! Buena onda!” I forget sometimes [...]

The Body-surfer’s Accessory

When the waves are not surfable with a board, but just right for body-surfing, I ran into this fun, little accessory. It’s a mini-surfboard that straps to your hand, so you can get the ultimate body-surf! Plus it comes with fins! I haven’t actually tried it out yet, but I already have the perfect break [...]

Swarm of Kooks

So the surf is, again…flatter than flat. But, after not surfing for a week, my friend and I decide to hit up the ankle rollers and test our luck. We had already gotten the heads-up from a surf buddy, “Tiny, but fun!” So we paddled out to the usually kook-filled main beach. We usually like [...]

Record Yourself

On the second day of the swell that just hit, a friend and I hit the waves, this time with a non-surfer and his video camera. Not only was this a chance to get some footage for our upcoming music video (aww yeah), but it also gave us a chance to check out our surf [...]

Why Why Why?!

So, yes it has been awhile since I’ve written, but the surf has not been treating me that well lately. I decided to subject myself to surf the itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-ankle rollers that were the only things coming in last week, in order to prepare myself for the “gnarly swell” that was supposed to come last Sunday. [...]

Surfwise: The Amazing True Odyssey of the Paskowitz Family - A Surf Movie Review

Surfwise: The Amazing True Odyssey of the Paskowitz Family is a documentary about the eleven-member Paskowitz family, who crammed into a motorhome and just surfed and traveled for pretty much the kids’ whole childhood-to-teenage years. The dad, ‘Doc’ Dorian Paskowitz, was a Stanford grad doctor who decided to give up his monotonous life to travel, [...]

Switchin’ it up

Longboard? Shortboard? Whatever! It’s really nice to switch it up once in awhile. I usually use my favorite 5′7” little fish: duck diving is always a dream, paddling is kind of a bitch, but it’s nice and turny and fast. Just recently, (after being sore from head to toe after an African dance class), I [...]

Some Surf History 101 (part 2)

From Peru, travelers brought surf to Hawaii and that is where surfing blew up. The word ’surfing’ is actually Hawaiian for ‘wave sliding.’ The boards back in the day were made of wood (definitely not as easy to use as fiberglass).  In 1953, the Waikiki Surf Club hosted the first international surf championships (wow, way-back-when) [...]

Global Warming and its Odd Ways - We may all be surfing indoors soon

After about a week of flat flat flat, finally a swell has hit my part of mainland Mexico! Going a week just staring at the ocean, wishing for something to come has paid off! Yesterday, my friend informed me with the fantastic news, “Oh my god, did you see the waves today?! They look f***in [...]

Some Surf History 101 (part 1)

Have you ever wondered where surfing comes from? I definitely have, so I when I came across this information, I thought I’d share it with you all! Much to our surprise, surfing did not come from Hawaii, it came from Peru. Surfers in Peru actually started tearing it up 3,000 years ago, except the board [...]

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