I’ve talked a bit about the Texas surf culture in the past (need a reminder? Click HERE). It’s an eclectic mix of weirdness and stoke. Having lived in the state for two years, you can believe me when I say that good surf is extremely rare, decent surf is infrequent, and poor surf prevails. When we do get lucky, though, magic happens.
Attesting to that fact are Corpus Christi locals Nate Floyd, Morgan Falkner, and Tegan Gainin. Their recent edit, A Day in Port A, will make you want to get up grab your log and go play. I dare you to tell me this doesn’t look like an absolute blast.
Keep an eye out for their full length film coming out late 2016!
“Half the people think I’m out of my mind … and half are just – I think they all think I’m crazy, actually.”-Garret McNamara after riding 90-foot beast off the coast of Nazare, Portugal
All the media outlets (alot of people in suits) are claiming Garret McNamara rode the biggest wave on record off the coast of Portugal. In the video below, Garret tows into a massive slab in Praia do Norte off the cost of Portugal. Garret and crew worked with the Portugese Hydrographic Institute studying this area before their latest sessions. Praia do Norte is a bit of a phenomenon because the waves get super-amped due to the underwater canyons. “This one just jacked up, broke, actually kind of barreled, and went to run me over, and somehow by the grace of God, I made it”, Garret told ABC after riding it. “When I rode the wave I didn’t know how big it was and then it landed on me at the very end,” Garret said. “It was like a ton of bricks on my shoulders and that’s when I realized if I had fallen it could have been really bad.” Check out the video (it sounds better in Portugese, and this reporter is a looker):
We’ve heard this may end up in the Guiness Book of World Records (they still around?). What Garret, now 44-years young, did is no question one of the biggest rides of all time. But wave height is always in dispute. Mike Parsons rode an 80+ footer at Cortes bank back in 2008, and that ride stands as the biggest wave ever ridden – even though Ken Bradshaw rode an 85 footer in Hawaii in 1998. Parson’s wave looks bigger than Garret’s wave to me on video, but who knows with all the camera angles – and maybe we’re spending too much time debating this? Garret’s ride will be entered into the Billabong XXL Global Big-Wave Awards, and then all this wave height stuff will be decided. Until its officially decided: Parsons — you rode the largest wave ever.
With the ridiculous increase in baggage fees, I am not sure how many surfers will be traveling with their
surfboards this season. But for those of you who are either die hards or just lucky enough to be traveling to a surf destination that justifies bringing your board with you, this video is for you: how to pack your surfboard travel bag so the damn airlines don’t ding your board. The vid goes over some basic packing tips, and definitely worth the 3 minute viewing… if nothing else, check out the quiver this guy brings with him when he flies to Australia.
If you’re a surfer of any kind, you’ll find Miki Dora’s prognostications on surfing to be pretty deep. This is a guy, who, by all accounts, railed against the commercialization of the “sport” and who would no doubt be rolling in his grave at the kids running around in [brand name] boardshorts, flip flops with Sun-in in their hair, some 3000 miles away from ANY kind of surf, not even a wave pool. Anyway, we at DailyStoke.com are trying to grasp at some of that surfing nostalgia – a piece of which drifted away when Dora left the scene. Fact is – Dora was right. Don’t be a surfing clone.
Okay, so most of the surfing world already knows that Alex Knost is a guy you either love or hate. You can admire his surfing both on a longboard, where his unique style and progressive surfing is almost unrivaled, or on a shortboard, where he can hang with the best. Ultimately, it will be his personality and character that pull you into his camp or make you want to puke. I fall into the latter group. His surfing is admirable, but his on land persona has much less appeal. He is the hipsters’ hipster, always trying his hardest to be ironically different. Barrel dodging 30-40 somethings and wannabe retro throwbacks generally revel in his queerness. Alex has even cited his own hate-ability in a pre-premier interview regarding this DVD of his, where he said, “Half of the people that watch it won’t understand it, and the other half will want to punch me in the face.” I fall into the latter half, as I wasted a few minutes of my life on the preview that I will never get back, a video that featured movie highlights such as Alex making his own skin tight shorts out of skin tight jeans. Check out the video above for a brief glimpse at a day in the life of one of my least favorite douchebags. Try to hold back your vomit when he starts talking about his poetry. Enjoy!
Some vintage footage of surfers at Sunset, Pipe, Waiamea in the 1960s, including George Downing, Ricky Grigg, Greg Noll and Mike Doyle. As the narrator says a couple of looooooong rides into this video: “And that’s what you call really getting stoked.” Stoked indeed. This surfing vid is a beaut. The best part is watching what appears to be Greg Noll doing a drop-knee turn on his surfboard. At Pipe.
Watching a surfboard get shaped is pretty fun – it just goes to show you what goes into to making a custom made surfboard. There’s! a! lot! of! flipping!! This time lapse shaping vid is brought to you by Rick Malwitz surfboards.
Metaphor time! If getting barreled is the closest thing to an orgasm, than this is the closest a man will ever get to a woman’s. It’s common knowledge that a female orgasm last much longer compared to a Male’s, and to put this in layman’s terms, a man’s peak would be compared to a quick tube at the pier. Where a woman’s time in the “Spirit World” would be more like Ozzie Wright’s ridiculously long barrel in Indo, click here.
Get my drift?
That is the difference between what’s happening inside a woman’s mind, compared to a males, during an orgasm…
I have no idea who this is, but this is seriously one of the deepest tubes I’ve ever seen in Mexico that wasn’t Puerto Escondido. This has to be the same spot Andy Irons won the “Somewhere In Mexico” Rip Curl event back in 2006. You can watch that swell clicking here. It was Andy and Taylor Knox in the final, and Andy popped a big air for the win. Thinking back, there were so many good barrels in that event that picking a favorite would be like choosing your most memorable orgasm. For a man that’s impossible, because they’re all equally amazing regardless of who made them happen.
Think Lower Trestles is crowed? Check out this clip I came across on YouTube today of somewhere only Satan knows because I can’t read the language description. From the looks of things, it must be Hell. Why would anyone even want to paddle out in that?! I don’t know about you, but I’m not really into getting fins run across my calves or surfboard noses in my eye. Talk about having a nervous breakdown. I’d probably end up killing someone. That someone most likely being my own face when I throw my fist into it. You could be the mellowest, best-mannered person in the world and still completely lose your mind out there. This must be what the whole world looks like from outer space, huh? No wonder all the passing aliens are like “F#ck that!”, and never land here anymore.
I had the very very long pleasure of watching the new …Lost 5’5″ x 19 1/4″: Redux surf epic. As with anything that runs on and on for six hours, it was hard to maintain focus. After watching plenty of barrels and plenty of airs, the movie slowly lulled me into a hypnotic state of dreariness. Watching, but not really seeing anything, I stared and stared as surfer after surfer punted 360 airs. I might as well have been watching the growth of General Sherman since the birth of Christ.
But, then it came on screen–a bold flash of light akin to the big bang dislodged me from my unconscious slumber.
Skeleton Bay, Namibia on film. Surfer Magazine did a story on the wave back in December, but this is the first video of the place. Skeleton Bay–an ever barreling, never ceasing, wave pool of perfection that has a lot of us wondering: what other mystical waves are out there that we don’t know about?
Watch the youtube.com teaser of the wave with Cory Lopez, and I’d recommend convincing a friend to buy 5’5″ x 19 1/4″: Redux so that you can see the whole section. But, just skip ahead to the Skeleton Bay section, and the rest of the video your friend can save for a day when you are not around. Because, really, your friend is better suited to wasting away six hours of a day for a surf movie than you.
Fish shapes. They’re back. And here you can witness one being shaped by Rick Malwitz surfboards. These time lapse surfboard shaping videos are rad, and give a good glimpse into what it takes to shape a surfboard. In this case, a little fish.
I know you’re thinking it can’t be so. Thinking, how can a guy possible surf better switchfoot than I surf normally? Thinking, do I really suck that much that this guy, who’s surfing the wrong way, surfs better than me? Yes, you do suck that much and yes, Derek Bockelman surfs better than you when he’s facing the wrong way.
Don’t feel bad. Derek happens to be one of the best switchfoot surfers around. He’s also one of the best underground new school tricksters on the planet. Combining a mixture of switchstance, aerials, 360s, spins, rolls, shove-its and even finger-flips, Derek continues to redefine what is possible while surfing. He mixes in equal parts surfing and skating, championing the 50/50 waveskate that has helped him become the twisting, punting, new school maverick that he is. With a surfing that is way more technical and diversified than your typical three to the beach guy, we are finally beginning to see some of the pros embrace similar maneuvers in contest venues. Look at Kelly Slater’s switchfoot rides at a few events this year, or the twisted punt fest that was the Trestles event. We’re all heading towards the obvious future, but Derek Bockelman already beat us there.
Don’t believe he’s really surfing switch? Check out the video below to see what he can do when he’s facing the right way.
If getting to the infamous Pororoca in the Amazon River wasn’t challenging enough for you to get to and survive, consider giving this African river wave a try. Though it’s a much different type of wave than its famous Amazonian cousin, this river rapid in Zambia is every bit as deadly and challenging. While the challenges to those hunting the Pororoca are well documented and known, from crocodiles to piranha to the infamous candiru, who like to swim up and attach themselves to the inside of men’s eurethras, the hazards in Zambia are a bit more of a wildcard. Going over the falls in Zambia literally means getting sucked down the river due to the rapid current and going over a set of world class waterfalls. Kind of makes the whole idea of surfing there a little less enticing.
Essentially, the wave in this case is a standing wave, formed by the water pressure moving over a quirk in the river’s rocky bottom. As such, it forms a standing wave similar to that on one of the man-made flow riders. While the river’s water movement is constantly pushing you towards the lip of the rapid, gravity works its constant downward pull, offering you a standing wave complete with a mini lip and barrel section. It looks like a load of fun, but given all the dangers involved in surfing it, I’ll stick with the flow rider for now.
The world of Surfing just keeps on expanding. Seems like every year a new way to ride a wave becomes popular. Now technology has come full-circle to offer us a completely new wave to ride. Wavepools are not new, but the process of perfecting the wave and taking ‘Wavepool Surfing’ mainstream has taken a while. I’m still waiting for one to come to my neighborhood while places like the Ocean Dome in Japan are making fantasy a reality with endless rippable waves – on demand! Once Six Flags clues into the phenomenon that is surfing, it won’t be long before we’re surfing in 48 new locations country wide. Don’t want to get skunked on your next surf vacation? Perhaps a roadtrip inland will soon be the ticket.
If you haven’t seen this YouTube vid of Kelly Slater saying “Hello, Rincon”, you should. We tracked down the dude who made it, and he just so happens to be Santa Barbara local, Morgan Maassen. What’s more, and more important, is that this surf filmmaker is only 18 years old, and already creating some pretty amazing surfing videos. Morgan Maassen is the real deal. We recently caught up with Morgan to find out more about how Slater knocked the logger down…
DailyStoke: So I’m surfing around, and I stumble upon one of the best vids of Kelly Slater’s surfing style. It’s a video entitled “Kelly Slater Ripin’ Rincon.” Yes, indeed. So how does one happen upon Kelly Slater surfing at Rincon, and shoot a vid of it?
Morgan Maassen: I was down at Rincon surfing, when his holiness showed up- my friends and I were floored. I changed and sprinted back to the car to grab my camera and tripod in literally a minute. As I got back down to the cove he was picking a board from his Channel Islands demo quiver, with no other filmmakers around! I was in heaven!
DailyStoke.com: Has Kelly Slater seen your vid?
Morgan Maassen: About two weeks after I posted the clip, a close friend of mine went to the Channel Islands factory (and headquarters). When in the office he saw Kelly and the mythical Trav Lee (Kelly’s manager) watching the clip, studying his surfing and laughing about his “bump”.
DailyStoke.com: How did you not stop filming and laugh your ass off where at 1:38, Slater knocks a logger off his board? (Was that Shaun Tomson? I could’ve swore it was Shaun Tomson.)
Morgan Maassen: When my friends and I watched it happen live, we weren’t laughing; we were left speechless. It happened so quickly, and was so fluid, subtle, and well-executed, that our jaws dropped. Upon further (and countless) reviews, we’ve spent a good amount of time laughing at his handling of the surfer. Believe it or not, that guy snaked Kelly (as Slater was two sections behind, but caught up anyways)….
DailyStoke.com: You’ve also got a pretty sweet vid of Tom Curren at Sandspit. So, who is the master, Slater or Curren? Or is it the Dolphins in your flick, Fine Tea?
Morgan Maassen: I view both as masters, for different reasons. No one has gone through the evolution, seen the changes, perfected the moves, or reigned over the industry and media like Slater has. But Curren is a timeless master of water. Watching him surf (anything) is always indescribably beautiful.
DailyStoke.com: Our readers will be surprised to know you’re 18. That’s pretty sick. Are you really 18, or are you 32 with a beer belly?
Morgan Maassen: HA! I’m actually a 47 year old Software Engineer from Palo Alto. Several years ago I quit my job, divorced my trophy wife, sold my valley home, bought a video camera, and never looked back. I claim I’m 18 so people will pay attention to my stuff.
DailyStoke.com: How did you get so good at filmmaking, so quickly?
Morgan Maassen: I love surfing and music… I don’t know? I draw a lot of inspiration from Chad Campbell’s “5th Symphony Document”, that film taught me so much. I just play around, pretty soon I will be able to start taking filmmaking classes.
DailyStoke.com: What do you shoot with? What do you wish you shot with?
Morgan Maassen: I use a Canon XH-A1 hdv camera, Del Mar waterhousing, and an assortment of fisheyes/telephoto adapters. I have an army of ancient Super8 cameras from ebay, but I rarely use the same one for more than 5 rolls of film as they always break! Finally, I own a 16mm Bolex HBM with 10, 20, 50 and 75mm lenses, but I have yet to find the money to film even a 5 minute clip on it. Basically I wish I could shoot with my 16mm Bolex…. Soon. I can’t wait for Red to ship the Scarlet camera, I’m ordering one with a Nikon mount the day they ship.
DailyStoke.com: It seems like you’re a pretty creative and passionate filmmaker. What are your plans for the next couple of years? Film school? Filmmaking? College chicks?
Morgan Maassen: I am going to college at the moment, with no major in mind. I’m entertaining the idea of filmmaking, photography, or art, but the more I try to decide, the more confused I become. I just want to travel, and practice all three of my passions.
DailyStoke.com: What’s the best surf film you’ve recently seen, other than one you’ve produced?
Morgan Maassen: The more surf films I see, the more I respect and love I gain for Chad Campbell’s older “5th Symphony Document.” It’s seriously perfect. Other than that, Globe’s “Secret Machine” has mind-blowing water cinematography; that knocked my socks off. 5’5” x 19” 1/4 redux has some killer footage. The first half of “One California Day” was great.
DailyStoke.com: What do you think is missing from surf films these days, and what are you going to do about it? Or is that your secret recipe?
Morgan Maassen: A good balance of music, lifestyle, and performance surfing is very hard to come by. Surf movies are too specialized; i.e. trashers (“Stranger than fiction”) or art projects (“Sprout”). Up until now I’ve only made fun vignettes as I’ve been so committed to surfing, working, and school, but in January I started a massive, funded film project which will hopefully be just the right combination… more soon….
We’ll be keeping an eye on what Morgan Maassen has got up his sleeve.
Is this supposed to be Irish surfers of lore? There’s an ancient tribal feel to the content, but they’ve got fiberglass/single-fin Guns. The guys frolicking in their underwear has got me guessing too – not likely in the freezing North Atlantic…unless, after a few too many pints of Guinness!
This video gives a quick peak about just how your precious little surfboard was probably shaped, hopefully in the United States and America! It is pretty cool to see the machine in action, and the video touts the benefits of such an investment. Dudes, it just makes sense! Starting at $25,000, these shapers can even shave a little piece of the stringer for ya.