Next time you’re out on a chest to head high day and the wind switches a little bit sideshore, “ruining” the perfect oil glass that you were already surfing for several hours, consider just how lucky you really are. There are people in this world who take great pleasure in surfing absolute garbage. In the above clip you’ll see locals of one of the finer breaks along the Colorado river, stoked out of their gourds on surfing ripples that would easily be rivalled by any crossing boat wake. I get the gimmicky appeal of trying this particular river wave once or twice, but the fact that they have a local known as “All Day Dave” seems a bit too much.
I know they say the best guy out there is the guy having the most fun, but…. come on! Seriously… could this be any less fun? No disrespect to the Colorado River locals. I understand you’re trying to make lemonade here, but aren’t there any nearby lakes that you could take a big wakemaster boat out onto, to kick up a wake that’s at least triple the size of your beloved river wave?
Stoked that these guys are stoked, but for the rest of us, let’s be happy with even the crappy days we have.
The world of Surfing just keeps on expanding. Seems like every year a new way to ride a wave becomes popular. Now technology has come full-circle to offer us a completely new wave to ride. Wavepools are not new, but the process of perfecting the wave and taking ‘Wavepool Surfing’ mainstream has taken a while. I’m still waiting for one to come to my neighborhood while places like the Ocean Dome in Japan are making fantasy a reality with endless rippable waves – on demand! Once Six Flags clues into the phenomenon that is surfing, it won’t be long before we’re surfing in 48 new locations country wide. Don’t want to get skunked on your next surf vacation? Perhaps a roadtrip inland will soon be the ticket.
Did you know Captain Kook, I mean Cook (with a C), discovered surfing for the Europeans in the 1700s? The things we learn from instructional surf books….
I Just finished reading GO SURF and watching the 30-minute virtual coaching DVD that comes with the book. This is a pretty good instructional surf book for beginners and more experienced surfers looking for a review of the fundamentals: it covers everything from basic stuff (standing up, punching thru waves, takeoff, speed and control) to more advanced front/backside turns, cutbacks, re-entries all the way to big wave riding. The book is def user friendly (simple color diagrams, me like) and comes with a DVD, which walks you thru, for example, barrel riding step-by-step with action shots that can be paused, viewed in slow-mo, and viewed from many different angles (360 degree capability). The video footage is actually pretty good too.
The book also has a short, but good history of surfing section (Europeans discovered surfing in 1779 when Captain Cook — spelled Cook, not Kook — reached Hawaii and Tahiti), a short section on basic exercises to keep in shape, and a 3 page section on how waves are formed and the anatomy of a wave lineup. Overall, this book gets a stoked rating for (a) officially deeming Captain Cook as the king of European surfing, (b) for its clear layout, cool DVD, and good price — fellow dailystokers can find used copies on Amazon for just $4-5.
“If you aren’t going to make it out of the tube, fall off the back of your board into the wave, kicking your board away in front of you. Lie flat and relax, allowing the turbulence to take you”
If you haven’t seen this YouTube vid of Kelly Slater saying “Hello, Rincon”, you should. We tracked down the dude who made it, and he just so happens to be Santa Barbara local, Morgan Maassen. What’s more, and more important, is that this surf filmmaker is only 18 years old, and already creating some pretty amazing surfing videos. Morgan Maassen is the real deal. We recently caught up with Morgan to find out more about how Slater knocked the logger down…
DailyStoke: So I’m surfing around, and I stumble upon one of the best vids of Kelly Slater’s surfing style. It’s a video entitled “Kelly Slater Ripin’ Rincon.” Yes, indeed. So how does one happen upon Kelly Slater surfing at Rincon, and shoot a vid of it?
Morgan Maassen: I was down at Rincon surfing, when his holiness showed up- my friends and I were floored. I changed and sprinted back to the car to grab my camera and tripod in literally a minute. As I got back down to the cove he was picking a board from his Channel Islands demo quiver, with no other filmmakers around! I was in heaven!
DailyStoke.com: Has Kelly Slater seen your vid?
Morgan Maassen: About two weeks after I posted the clip, a close friend of mine went to the Channel Islands factory (and headquarters). When in the office he saw Kelly and the mythical Trav Lee (Kelly’s manager) watching the clip, studying his surfing and laughing about his “bump”.
DailyStoke.com: How did you not stop filming and laugh your ass off where at 1:38, Slater knocks a logger off his board? (Was that Shaun Tomson? I could’ve swore it was Shaun Tomson.)
Morgan Maassen: When my friends and I watched it happen live, we weren’t laughing; we were left speechless. It happened so quickly, and was so fluid, subtle, and well-executed, that our jaws dropped. Upon further (and countless) reviews, we’ve spent a good amount of time laughing at his handling of the surfer. Believe it or not, that guy snaked Kelly (as Slater was two sections behind, but caught up anyways)….
DailyStoke.com: You’ve also got a pretty sweet vid of Tom Curren at Sandspit. So, who is the master, Slater or Curren? Or is it the Dolphins in your flick, Fine Tea?
Morgan Maassen: I view both as masters, for different reasons. No one has gone through the evolution, seen the changes, perfected the moves, or reigned over the industry and media like Slater has. But Curren is a timeless master of water. Watching him surf (anything) is always indescribably beautiful.
DailyStoke.com: Our readers will be surprised to know you’re 18. That’s pretty sick. Are you really 18, or are you 32 with a beer belly?
Morgan Maassen: HA! I’m actually a 47 year old Software Engineer from Palo Alto. Several years ago I quit my job, divorced my trophy wife, sold my valley home, bought a video camera, and never looked back. I claim I’m 18 so people will pay attention to my stuff.
DailyStoke.com: How did you get so good at filmmaking, so quickly?
Morgan Maassen: I love surfing and music… I don’t know? I draw a lot of inspiration from Chad Campbell’s “5th Symphony Document”, that film taught me so much. I just play around, pretty soon I will be able to start taking filmmaking classes.
DailyStoke.com: What do you shoot with? What do you wish you shot with?
Morgan Maassen: I use a Canon XH-A1 hdv camera, Del Mar waterhousing, and an assortment of fisheyes/telephoto adapters. I have an army of ancient Super8 cameras from ebay, but I rarely use the same one for more than 5 rolls of film as they always break! Finally, I own a 16mm Bolex HBM with 10, 20, 50 and 75mm lenses, but I have yet to find the money to film even a 5 minute clip on it. Basically I wish I could shoot with my 16mm Bolex…. Soon. I can’t wait for Red to ship the Scarlet camera, I’m ordering one with a Nikon mount the day they ship.
DailyStoke.com: It seems like you’re a pretty creative and passionate filmmaker. What are your plans for the next couple of years? Film school? Filmmaking? College chicks?
Morgan Maassen: I am going to college at the moment, with no major in mind. I’m entertaining the idea of filmmaking, photography, or art, but the more I try to decide, the more confused I become. I just want to travel, and practice all three of my passions.
DailyStoke.com: What’s the best surf film you’ve recently seen, other than one you’ve produced?
Morgan Maassen: The more surf films I see, the more I respect and love I gain for Chad Campbell’s older “5th Symphony Document.” It’s seriously perfect. Other than that, Globe’s “Secret Machine” has mind-blowing water cinematography; that knocked my socks off. 5’5” x 19” 1/4 redux has some killer footage. The first half of “One California Day” was great.
DailyStoke.com: What do you think is missing from surf films these days, and what are you going to do about it? Or is that your secret recipe?
Morgan Maassen: A good balance of music, lifestyle, and performance surfing is very hard to come by. Surf movies are too specialized; i.e. trashers (“Stranger than fiction”) or art projects (“Sprout”). Up until now I’ve only made fun vignettes as I’ve been so committed to surfing, working, and school, but in January I started a massive, funded film project which will hopefully be just the right combination… more soon….
We’ll be keeping an eye on what Morgan Maassen has got up his sleeve.
There’s a surfing-like activity that is all the rage for surfers that are battling flat conditions (ie. None of us, right now) and for dumb kids finding themselves far from surf: car surfing. Don’t do it. Don’t let your younger brother do it. The guy in this video is just totally asking for – oh, wait, he actually gets it, hard. A whole bunch of kids keep doing it, and the results are just plain stupid. Yeah, it’s fun for about 15 seconds, and then you wipeout and it’s not fun. Like Teahupoo, sort of, but much, much worse. Not stoked.
If you’re a surfing filmmaker or know of one, we’re looking for surfing movies to review. We’ve been contacted by a number of great filmmakers, and have done reviews of One Track Mind, the new film by Chris Malloy, Chasing the Dream, a story about the surfing team at Huntington Beach High School among other films. More movies are on the way. That said, we’ve also found some beauts, like Surfing 50 States, and we’ll be profiling this new and creative movie soon. So if you’ve got something in the can and want the surfing world to know about it, let us know at info [a] dailystoke.com.
You may never have given it any thought. Indeed, if you’re anywhere other than Australia, California or Hawaii (or other popular surfing destinations), you’ll have heard a similar question about your local break. In the case of surfing in the UK, there happens to be a very vibrant surfing community, surfing the more-often-than-not cold, dark, windblown waters. There’s more, of course – a whole lot more – as is ably documented in Alex Wade’s book, Surf Nation: Searching for Fast Rights and Hollow Lefts, which you should check out on Amazon.com, here. Wade is a recovering lawyer and surfer in England who formerly ran the Surf Nation blog at the Times, a popular newspaper, and who currently provides commentary on SurfNation.co.uk.
With Surf Nation, Wade spent 18 (mostly frigid) months documenting each surfing community in England, Ireland and Wales, and along the way meets the characters (some clearly British prim and proper types and others not quite so) who make up the tight-knit, eclectic and dedicated crew of surfers. Wade’s descriptions of secret spots paints the UK as a largely untapped surfing destination. Forget tea and Buckingham Palace and head straight to Portleven etc.
Perhaps the best feature of the book is that Wade gives surfers a road map to the possibilities of surfing in the United Kingdom (as the chapters are divided that way) without coming close to giving away every single spot. And all the while, he drops into local surf shops that would remind you in many ways of your own local spot. Turns out surfing is surfing after all. (I think, however, that the book would benefit from a map – not a spot map, per se, but a map of the areas that Wade visits. I found myself frequently heading to Google Maps Satellite View to see the breaks in action…)
In one particularly interesting chapter, Wade is invited to surf the River Severn Tidal Bore. A tidal bore occurs where the ocean tide runs headlong into a river, creating a two to six foot wave that can be surfed for miles. (At least, I think that’s what a Tidal Bore is…) Wade’s account of surfing the bore is hilarious, as he and many other bore surfers start by surfing on their bellies in a kook-like manner so as to avoid falling off and risking missing the wave in its entirety. Wade describes his desire to actually surf the bore – he pops up and has a truly awesome surfing experience. It’s the kind of story that makes you want to jet over the pond to see and surf a tidal bore yourself.
If your still somewhat skeptical of the potential for surf, remember that Wade has written a detailed book covering the subject. It’s there, and it’s real and he covers it in some 300 pages, with a healthy dose of surfing history from Hawaii and California mixed in. I can say that I learned a few new things about our favorite passion.
Is this supposed to be Irish surfers of lore? There’s an ancient tribal feel to the content, but they’ve got fiberglass/single-fin Guns. The guys frolicking in their underwear has got me guessing too – not likely in the freezing North Atlantic…unless, after a few too many pints of Guinness!
For anyone planning to start surfing, it’s a good idea to buy a used or epoxy board that can take a beating. And, before you paddle out don’t be afraid to ask a local where to get in and out of the water. This dude’s next lesson will be in ding repair.
[Editor’s Note: Yeah – trying to look cool is the number one reason, in my mind, why people tend to look like kooks, especially when starting out. Everybody who has been in the water started as a kook. The key is to recognize when you’re kookin’ out!!]
So, aside from the fact that the surfer in this vid is attempting to surf Hurricane Ike – complete with crazy winds and tons of whitewater – and is later seen “riding” closeout crap, the best part about this vid is the cop getting totally pummeled by a wave, as he attempts to drive his four wheeler out past the breaking waves. We can only assume that the 4 wheeler is done for. Surfers who are venturing out in these conditions know what they are doing and accept the risk of going out (in what looks like crappy conditions). Surfers most certainly don’t need a warning from the local cops that the conditions are rough and possibly treacherous. While the cop was clearly trying to do his duty (I guess), he had the wrong tools for the job. What he really needed was a Stand Up Paddleboard…
This video gives a quick peak about just how your precious little surfboard was probably shaped, hopefully in the United States and America! It is pretty cool to see the machine in action, and the video touts the benefits of such an investment. Dudes, it just makes sense! Starting at $25,000, these shapers can even shave a little piece of the stringer for ya.
Reader Alex sent us the following Youtube vid – what surfers do when it’s flat. Sick barrels, dude! Props to Alex for finding this obscure surfing vid – and yeah, that’s the kind of thing I’d like to do when it’s flat.
This is the most stunning surfing clip I’ve seen in a long time. The clip is an extract from a six-part series called South Pacific being broadcasted on BBC2. The vid shows Dylan Longbottom in super sloooooooooooooow motion and high definition, surfing a nice twelve footer and getting shacked. The vid is HD, and is twenty times slower than real live.
Because that’s apparently what it’s like to get shacked, right?
Yeah yeah, I know, “at least they’re having fun.” Well at least they could’ve kept their little vacation a secret by not making a movie on Vimeo. I was just searching for some cool local surfing vids, and what do I find? The latest episode of Kooksville? Of course, I chuckle at this video in good nature, realizing how good I have it to live close enough to the beach that I don’t need to make a ridiculously edited video every time that I go. But what are ya’ gonna do? Everyone surfs nowadays. Everyone.
Well, actually, they’ve always displayed a sense of humor – I mean, Sex Wax? How about Quick Humps? Anyways, I love Sex Wax Quick Humps and I religiously use it as my base-coat because it makes the most perfect little bumps so your little feet and toes can grip an otherwise oil-slick board. Then I slap on some Sticky Bumps or whatever else I can find at the local shop and use the stickiness for extra insurance.
But back to Sex Wax, when you go to their website, they have this awesome movie before you enter the site that isn’t funny at all until like the last ten seconds.
Plus, if you peel the label of the plastic wrapper, you can use it as a sticker! Shhh! Don’t tell anyone!
He’s an undersea creature. Why wouldn’t he surf? He is in the water. Or actually, under the water. Think about that for a second. Do you see something wrong here? How is there water under the water? Hmmm. Oh well, Spongebob is beast, and if you’ve never watched Spongebob, then you are not a surfer through my eyes.