
"You f%cking kook, get out of the water!...were you born on planet kook?!". The answer is yes, at least initially. This book was written by a Kook, Peter Heller is his name. He never surfed a day in his life until he was 45yrs old and after getting yelled at (above) after snaking some dudes at Huntington Beach, he hits the road for 2 months. He surfs every day, mostly in Mexico and ends up at Mex Pipe, aka Puerto Escondido and then the question is he is surfer, or just a guy that surfs....or … [Read more...]













