there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Why you don’t lend your boards to Beginners

For anyone planning to start surfing, it’s a good idea to buy a used or epoxy board that can take a beating. And, before you paddle out don’t be afraid to ask a local where to get in and out of the water. This dude’s next lesson will be in ding repair.
[Editor's Note: Yeah - [...]

How do you know you’re kookin’ out - part 2

So, how do you know you’re kookin’ out? When you adorn your car with millions of surfing-related bumper stickers, the largest of which is Ron Jon Surf Shop. This guy is over-stoked, if that’s possible!

A Kook’s Guide to: Not looking like a kook while walking up to your break

(Sorry Mr. Kook, I know that kookiness is your domain, but I had to do this subject - Feel free to put up any posts using the title “A Kook’s Guide to” if you want…)
Disclaimer: This is a parody meant to be read by real surfers. But read this as if you were a clueless [...]

They’re still just your average pro.

While watching the recent ASP World Tour event at Trestles on the interweb (Gosh, when are they ever gonna get on t.v.!), I started to notice one trait that pro-surfers possess that has seemingly drifted past the majority of us “mortals”: Pro surfers are actually human. Yes, it’s shocking, but true. The curtain of [...]

Foam for thought: The forgotten link

While I was surfing one bright, summer morning, I decided, “It’s only going to be knee-high, so I’ll bring my longboard so I’ll be able to catch the waves.”  That morning the water resembled a mirror, and every so often a sizable stomach-chest high bomb set would roll through.  They were definitely shortboardable, but I had [...]

Amputee Stoked on Surfing

One young man from Afghanistan, Mohammad Malek, lost both his legs to land mines. But the lack of legs has not stopped him from surfing.
He came to Los Angeles in 2005 to receive treatment for his wounds, and after a trip to the beach in his wheelchair, he expressed an interest in surfing. With a [...]

Top surfing misconceptions

Below is a list that I compiled that showcases many misconceptions that non-surfers make regarding surfing as a sport, surf culture, surfing gear, and other surfing related things. *sigh* If only they knew…
1. Surfing is easy! “All you do is stand up on a board!”
Which is all you really need to do [...]

His Grandma must have gotten this shot with her Kodak Single Use.

What is boogie boarding really? It’s easy to claim bodyboarding is nothing more than training wheels for the ocean. Something you’re supposed to grow out of, but sometimes people get lost in life, and before you know it you’re a 26 yr old gossip queen. That’s what boogers do… Huddle around in small groups on [...]

Buena Onda

I just want to say how nice it is when there is a good vibe in the water. In Mexico, we call it “una buena onda.” You can call people or different things “buena onda” and even say it as a, “Thank you so much, you’re so sweet!” = “Gracias! Buena onda!” I forget sometimes [...]

Swarm of Kooks

So the surf is, again…flatter than flat. But, after not surfing for a week, my friend and I decide to hit up the ankle rollers and test our luck. We had already gotten the heads-up from a surf buddy, “Tiny, but fun!” So we paddled out to the usually kook-filled main beach. We usually like [...]

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