there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Leash or No Leash…My Vote

There are two schools of thought - or two different debates - when it comes to surfing.  One: Longboarding or shortboarding? Longboarding is better. That one’s easy.  Moving on to the second: Leash or No Leash? I thought I’d cast my vote in this debate (er, school of thought), since the first one is an [...]

Surf Flat? Stay in Paddling Shape for Cheap

There are definitely advantages to going to your local gym after work to try to get in shape.  Your gym has every machine and weight setup you could possibly need to get a great workout, not to mention the scenery is usually pretty good.
But once you’re there, and finally not distracted for long enough to actually get [...]

Foam for thought: The forgotten link

While I was surfing one bright, summer morning, I decided, “It’s only going to be knee-high, so I’ll bring my longboard so I’ll be able to catch the waves.”  That morning the water resembled a mirror, and every so often a sizable stomach-chest high bomb set would roll through.  They were definitely shortboardable, but I had [...]

Simply Simpo- Brett Simpson Training

This is Brett Simpson training to be the best possible contest surfer he can be. Ian “Kanga” Cairns is helping him out, and I think it’s safe to say that dude knows a few things about professional surfing. After Timmy Reyes, Brett Simpson is probably Huntington Beach’s next best hope for a world champion. Both [...]

Bringing back the Johnny Boy Gomes mantra – DO SOMETHING!

So I’m sitting out in my regular lineup on a less than stellar day, where the already mediocre sets are few and far between. Finally a set peaks up on the horizon, sending me and everyone else scrambling to pick off the one decent wave of the set/hour/day. Then some turd-burglar on a longboard [...]

Switchin’ it up

Longboard? Shortboard? Whatever! It’s really nice to switch it up once in awhile. I usually use my favorite 5′7” little fish: duck diving is always a dream, paddling is kind of a bitch, but it’s nice and turny and fast. Just recently, (after being sore from head to toe after an African dance class), I [...]

Channel Islands Surfboards 2009 Board Line

Channel Islands Surfboards released their 2009 board line, and this particular model caught my eye right off the bat. According to Al Merrick, Kelly Slater won’t leave home without it! That being said, you know it’s gotta be golden. “The Pod” is designed for weaker waves, meant to be ridden around 7 inches smaller than [...]

The Elusive Surf Snake: Native of Southern Baja

In a shameful display of disrespect, lack of skill, and disregard for my buddy’s safety, this textbook example of the Southern Baja Surf Snake strikes hard and fast.  Don’t worry, it was his last wave of the day…

Stay tuned for more coverage of the debauchery in Baja.
-P.K.
Keep Leucadia Funky

How to get really good at longboarding

These dudes are ripping! (Try to take note of all the cross-stepping in between the tricks.) This is by far the best longboard skateboard video I’ve ever seen. I don’t know if these guys surf or not, but it’s safe to say it wouldn’t take much for them to learn. Skateboarding helps your surfing tremendously. [...]

How to Properly Dispose of Kooks With Kelly Slater

Surfing is becoming way too popular in California, and there’s no “chances are” about it. You’ve been dropped in on countless times. It’s a session killer when you’ve been looking for a bomb all morning, and then some barney drops in with you. When the waves are sh!t, it’s different. No one really gives a [...]

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