Surf Forecasting Resources for Regular Surfers – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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Over the coming days, we'll be profiling the work of Adam Wright, from SoCal Surf Forecast. Adam was cool enough to answer a series of questions from our writers, all about surf forecasts. Here goes! DailyStoke.com: It’s one thing to follow a surfing forecast site like yours, religiously, but it’s quite another to understand in great detail the information that is presented there. Do you have any suggested resources for surfers who want to figure it out for themselves, or at least better understand … [Read more...]

Surf Forecasting Technology – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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DailyStoke.com: How do you feel that forecasting technology will advance in the future? Or are we at the…uhh…peak now? How do you feel that forecasting technology is changing the surf culture? Socalsurf.com: I think we are a long way from the “peak” of forecasting technology. Just like every form of technology...Forecasting technology is going to get more and more sophisticated and refined in the future. Computers are going to continue to get faster and be able to process more, we … [Read more...]

I don’t even know how to spell Corilois – Misunderstandings about Surf Forecasting – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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DailyStoke.com: What is the most frequently misunderstood element of surf forecasting made by regular surfers who are trying to understand the forecasts? Socalsurf.com: That is sort of a hard one to pin down...there are a lot of confusing concepts in forecasting... How swell direction (and swell period) interact with local geography and bathometry is usually something that is hard for people to wrap their heads around. It is one of those, “wait...what do you mean that this spot breaks on a … [Read more...]

Surf Science – surfing book review

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If you want to increase your surfing knowledge, it's a natural progression to move away from surf forecasts made in some bunker in Southern California by someone else in favor of your own ability to predict when waves are on the way. There may be no better way to do that than through a book published with the University of Hawaii Press (of course), written by Tony Butt and Paul Russell entitled Surf Science. As much as wave prediction is science, there is a fair amount of chaos theory involved (or … [Read more...]

GO SURF: Surfing Book Review

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Did you know Captain Kook, I mean Cook (with a C), discovered surfing for the Europeans in the 1700s?  The things we learn from instructional surf books....  I Just finished reading GO SURF and watching the 30-minute virtual coaching DVD that comes with the book.  This is a pretty good instructional surf book for beginners and more experienced surfers looking for a review of the fundamentals: it covers everything from basic stuff (standing up, punching thru waves, takeoff, speed and control) to … [Read more...]

The best wave making machine yet – Surf The Ring

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Surfing a chest to head high, glassy and perfect wave sounds great, doesn't it? Well how about if that wave turned on when you want? If Dayton Beach, Florida's Kevin Roberts has his way, we'll be surfing 365 days of the year in perfect conditions with a new mega-contraption he has conceived, called Surf the Ring. Roberts has invented a man-made wave that appears to propagate around a ring. Picture a donut (mmm!), where the middle is a circular beach island, with a racetrack of water surrounding … [Read more...]

Leash or No Leash…My Vote

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There are two schools of thought - or two different debates - when it comes to surfing.  One: Longboarding or shortboarding? Longboarding is better. That one's easy.  Moving on to the second: Leash or No Leash? I thought I'd cast my vote in this debate (er, school of thought), since the first one is an open-and-closed case...right? Here's what I say:  if you are a longboarder who does helicopters or spins on your board nonstop, then I could see where a leash would get in the way.  And props … [Read more...]

72 hours out of the water – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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DailyStoke.com: Don't you think this whole run-off, “don't get in the water for 72 hours” thing is just an excuse for pussies not to paddle out in an actual swell? I mean storms = swell, right? All I hear when there are waves is a bunch of dudes on the cliff goin' "Yeah man, looks killer, but I don't want to get sick. You know..." Socalsurf.com: Not at all...if anything I think that water quality issues are downplayed more than they are hyped up. It is crazy how many sewage and random chemical … [Read more...]

Surf Forecasts, and more surfers in the water – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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DailyStoke.com: A common question from all of our writers. Do you ever alter the forecasts in order to get swells to yourself? But you want to, don't you? ☺ Socalsurf.com: Hahaha...awesome question. I get it asked in-person every once in a while too. Personally I never alter forecasts...never ever. Really there isn’t much of a point...particularly in Southern Cal. In Socal there are surfers that are going to go to the beach, look at the cams, and/or call their friends for reports no matter … [Read more...]

Blacks Beach and stretches of the coastline – Ask a Surf Forecaster

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DailyStoke.com: How does "basically flat" at most southern California breaks play out at Blacks Beach? Other than Blacks beach, are there many other breaks in southern California where bathometrics really come into play in predicting wave heights? Are there any stretches of coast that propose significant challenges when making predictions? Socalsurf.com: Conditions at all of the “swell magnet” spots (including Blacks) depends on the swell direction and the swell period. Actually there are … [Read more...]