there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Leash or No Leash…My Vote

There are two schools of thought - or two different debates - when it comes to surfing.  One: Longboarding or shortboarding? Longboarding is better. That one’s easy.  Moving on to the second: Leash or No Leash? I thought I’d cast my vote in this debate (er, school of thought), since the first one is an [...]

Perils of pearling while “surfing”

Ahh yes. Goat boats. We’re sure it’s quite a rush to surf down the face of a wave in a big mofo of a boat. But, as any kook knows, pearling happens from time to time. It can be rescued. You’ve got to push yourself off of the deck of your board etc. etc. Anyway, [...]

How close to the water can I get my head?

Wipeout of the week

Hope he makes it over the falls

Wipeout of the Week

What not to do with surfboards on top of your car

WIPEOUT!!!
A lot of people are idiots. Even surfers. This guy is a great example of a surfer who didn’t get his daily dose (let your imagination figure it out…). If I was that guy, the first thing that would go through my mind as the car started tipping is “Oh sh!t!!! [...]

Not the best of places to be… Crazy Wipeout

“Is that jet-ski gonna hit my head? Is that jet-ski gonna hit my head?!” That’s what I would be thinking through the whole wipeout. Forget the razor-sharp shallow reef, or the set lurking behind, there’s a jet-ski on the wave too! Really, this would be my number one fear if [...]

Can’t make it to the Billabong XXL Awards Ceremony? Webcast that $h*t!

So if you’re like me, and your GoPro ran out of batteries right as you got whipped into a 65 foot bomb at Cortez Bank, then you probably didn’t get an invite to the event of all events in the big wave world this year.  There is however, a consolation that will allow you to live vicariously [...]

Wipeouts Anyone?

Not usually into this sort of music, but this one’s kinda catchy and really makes the vid work for me. “The Ride” at the end is my fantasy third reef Pipeline ride of all rides.

Drunk at the Wavepool: Shots n Tubes

The mission:
Get hammered
Invade the wavepool
Tie up/Pay off/Enlist the power controller
Turn it on full blast
Charge it!
Yeah!
**I don’t know what’s up with the guy at the end.

A Tale of the Surfboard — Part II

A Tale of the Surfboard — Part I
Swell upon swell traversed the immense Pacific. The daily ebb and flow of water waxed and waned on the sandy beaches of the coast. The sun walked across the day to rest at night in the horizon, and the interwoven swell and tide would occasionally reach a moment [...]

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