there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Funny sh!t

Childhood Memories

Remember that first big wave (to you)  as a kid playing in the surf? The first glimpse at a wall of water growing before your eyes and bearing down on you?  That moment when you were either brave and playful with it, or freakin’ panicked!? For many, these were the childhood experiences that shaped their lifelong fear or love for the ocean. In this clip we spy good ol’ dad supplying lifelong memories for his family at Baja‘s K38. Hell of a ride for the kids in this dinghy - I wonder who was crying and who was smiling.
K38 is epic - my memories of the spot are of double overhead blue water perfection and big tide swings.  My first trip to this spot back in ‘96 we arrived at sunset and the tide was way out exposing 100+yards of craggly rocks and spires - not even walkable. I wondered where the break was. We awoke the next morning to a completely different sight - the high tide had filled in and 200 yard long rights were peeling across that same field of hazards. We scored, but it took me a little time to get out of my head what I knew lay below.

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