No B.S. Summary
I just finished reading Chris Dixon's captivating story of Cortes Bank, Ghost Wave, and I'm absolutely floored. In it, Dixon lays out one of the most meticulously researched and detailed histories of a surf break ever written. I am now a true fan of big wave surfing, a must read for big wave riders...
The Good
- Thoroughly researched
The Not So Good
- I need to spend some time at Cortes Bank
No B.S. Review
I just finished reading Chris Dixon's captivating story of Cortes Bank, Ghost Wave, and I'm absolutely floored. In it, Dixon lays out one of the most meticulously researched and detailed histories of a surf break ever written.
Ghost Wave takes the reader behind the veil, covering everything from Cortes' prehistory, through colonial times, through pioneer days and the major wars. Dixon transports the reader through time and space, putting them in the crow's nest for some of the most harrowing maritime adventures and misadventures in Cortes' recorded history. Oh yeah, and he even covers the history of surfing on our sport's own Mount Everest. Think you know who surfed Cortes Bank first? Dixon knows.
Cortes Bank may be the backdrop, but make no mistake, Dixon's tome is no one trick pony. Ghost Wave covers much of the history of big wave and tow surfing generally and puts the reader inside of the minds and hearts of those who ride giants. Think you know what makes these legends tick? You don't. But Dixon nails it.
One of the more interesting passages in Ghost Wave included the failed plot to resurrect Cortes Bank into a modern day sovereign island nation (seriously). Equally interesting was Dixon's history of the late Sean Collins' ascendancy and the resulting epic battle for the swell scoop between Surfer and Surfing magazines.
Despite the thousands of photos and videos I've seen over the years, I've always written off big wave surfing and tow surfing as little more than a sideshow. I always felt that the small fraternity of guys (and gals) who chase down the biggest waves on the planet were in it more for the respect and approval of others than for anything else. Ghost Wave paints a crystal clear picture of tortured souls who were simply addicted to the next big wave and were inconsolable after missing even a single big swell. These incredibly complex heroes were just as happy (if not more than happy) scoring monsters without a camera present, though the resulting film often paid for them to chase down the next big swell.
Dixon's Ghost Wave converted a non-believer into a bonafide fan of big wave surfing. I might not be ready to tow into Cortes Bank, but not a day has gone by since I picked up Ghost Wave when I haven't scoured the Internet for the latest big wave footage. It's a fantastic and captivating read that puts the reader in the driver's seat better than any photo or video ever could.
Pick up a copy from your favorite bookstore or order a physical copy or Kindle copy from Amazon today.
User Rating
(3 votes, average: 4.67 out of 5)
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