Big Wave
I can’t believe they had the balls to make the drop on those logs
Some vintage footage of surfers at Sunset, Pipe, Waiamea in the 1960s, including George Downing, Ricky Grigg, Greg Noll and Mike Doyle. As the narrator says a couple of looooooong rides into this video: “And that’s what you call really getting stoked.” Stoked indeed. This surfing vid is a beaut. The best part is watching what appears to be Greg Noll doing a drop-knee turn on his surfboard. At Pipe.
Related Posts
Discussion
2 comments for “I can’t believe they had the balls to make the drop on those logs”
Post a comment
Advertisement:
Surf Central
WP Cumulus Flash tag cloud by Roy Tanck requires Flash Player 9 or better.
Daily Email from DailyStoke
Get DailyStoke right to your email once a day - Sign up here to stay stoked!
// Home // About // Subscribe // Editorial Policy // Advertise to Surfers // Surf Archives // Legal // Sitemap
Ahhh, to have lived in a day where you could wake up, eat a pineapple out of a field, drop 2 tabs of pure LSD, surf 25 foot Waimea ON A 50 POUND SINGLE FIN WITH NO LEASH, wash ashore, and walk home with a Polynesian princess who thinks you are a king. I’d give up my south beach diet, unsecure job, mushy and crowded weekend Manhattan Beach closeouts, carbon fiber quad fin, high maintenance California girls, and hybrid SUV any day….FML
And they don’t even have paddles!