Surfing Travel
Kiribati - Going off the surf map
Looking for tropical South Pacific perfection without the crowds? Look no further than the island nation of Kiribati. Pronounced Kiribas, the name is an indigenous pronunciation of Gilberts (say it quickly and you’ll hear the connection), from the British Captain Thomas Gilbert, who “discovered” the islands in 1788. Independent since July 1979, the Republic of Kiribati is comprised of just over 30 atolls.
Kiribati is one of the few places in the world where the government regulates surfing, requiring licenses for those who wish to surf there, and allowing no more than eleven surfers in the water at a given time. Sounds like a dream right? Wrong. Though the atolls are ringed with numerous perfect reef breaks, the republic is in dire need of help as it remains among the poorest nations on the planet. Widespread health issues persist, technology and communications date back to the 1920s, population overcrowding is out of control, sanitation infrastructure is virtually non-existent, and inter-island flights are completely unreliable. Conditions on the islands are so poor, even the U.S. Peace Corps has been rumored to be pulling out of Kiribati in recent years.
Problems aside, it’s not a bad place to go for a surf trip, though getting there won’t be as easy as just getting on a plane. There’s quite a bit of info on the web about various reefs and breaks on a few of the atolls, as well as a surf travel company or two who specialize in arranging local surf guides. Do your homework online and go well prepared. Get out there, get off the surf map and go explore.
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The Peace Corps did pull out of here because conditions were too unreliable. I had served there as a volunteer from 2000-2002 and even at that point, before the flooding/rainy season, there were a number of problems with transport.