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All For a Few Perfect Waves interview - wikid surfing nostalgia
Pretty interesting interview with the author of All For a Few Perfect Waves, David Rensin. The book itself rocks - it is a detailed account of the live and times of Jesus Christ Himself Miki Dora, Malibu surfer extraordinaire. If you haven’t seen him in Endless Summer or haven’t heard much about Dora, you really should be. Dora was the anti-Kook - he hated all the posers in the water and the kooks from the Valley that “polluted” his favorite *secret spot*. Above is a length interview with the author of the book.
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