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There are a couple of ways to get hurt in big surf…
… And honestly, this a kind of stupid way to get hurt. It looks like a blast to do, but imagine being hurt while you do it: “How did you break your neck? Where you surfing Shipsterns Bluff and you wiped out onto the rock shelf?” Then you try to come up with a reply that sounds like you where actually doing something that sounds Indiana Jones-like: “I was, uhhh, standing on this concrete platform, by where the waves break, and uhhhh, I heard this wave coming, so I uhhhh ran for edge, and uhhh, there was this helicopter! Yeah! And I had to jump for the rope ladder! And the wave hit that platform and EXPLODED!!! But I missed the rope ladder by inches, I fell, and landed on a piling.” But if there were waves like this, I would be looking for a rideable wave, not throwing myself into an intentional wipeout.
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That’s crazy shit.