Barreled

Getting barreled

We’re not going to call anybody out, but we’ve seen a ton of videos out there, even professionally produced movies, of guys getting barreled, but the camera cuts away as the wave closes out on the surfer. (Ok - fact is, I’m no pro, and not ashamed of the fact that I’m a barrel virgin. It’s all good, right? I mean I can keep practicing but…). Anyway, I’m proud of all the guys that pull in to the barrel, but isn’t there something important to be said for timing it and trimming so perfectly that you make it out of the barrel alive? It’s a beautiful thing when it happens. Just sayin’. Watching the vids is like an unspoken feeling of: “They just cut away - I guess I know what happens next…I don’t need to see it but, yeah.”

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