there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

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Miki Dora Interview Footage - all surfers should watch

If you’re a surfer of any kind, you’ll find Miki Dora’s prognostications on surfing to be pretty deep. This is a guy, who, by all accounts, railed against the commercialization of the “sport” and who would no doubt be rolling in his grave at the kids running around in [brand name] boardshorts, flip flops with Sun-in in their hair, some 3000 miles away from ANY kind of surf, not even a wave pool. Anyway, we at DailyStoke.com are trying to grasp at some of that surfing nostalgia - a piece of which drifted away when Dora left the scene. Fact is - Dora was right. Don’t be a surfing clone.

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