While I was in high school, I took an Oceanography class with a Mr. Harold Dorr, an amazing teacher who got me stoked on the science side of waves, wave energy, tides, etc. Basically, the science side of the ocean, and it changed the way I view it and appreciate it.
I found a video that I wanted to share with a doctor from Scripps Institute here in San Diego, giving a lecture on waves and their energy potential. He also discusses the climate change and its effect on waves. Yes, it’s a straight lecture and I felt like I should be taking notes for some upcoming exam, but there’s some really good information discussed and are definitely applicable to surfing-why waves break when they do, the effect of the ocean floor on waves, tidal energy, and more. I highly suggest the video for anyone interested in the ocean, especially surfers!
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