there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Surfing

Classic Bruce Irons footy

This is some old throw-back footage of Bruce Irons talking about wanting to win all the money he can while still young, and then getting barreled for football fields. It’s amazing how light he can be on his feet while surfing such powerful waves. At times it looks as if it could blow him right off his board. Wait, that came out all wrong. What I mean is the dude looks like he’s not even standing on his board, as if hovering above it, and then somehow rips through a full rail cutty sending buckets to mars. Not so much here with the power, but things have changed since. I’m guessing he came nowhere near to winning all the money dreamed of on the WCT, but not to worry, his lifetime sponsorship with Volcom took care of that.

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