Learning to Surf
Foam for thought: The forgotten link
While I was surfing one bright, summer morning, I decided, “It’s only going to be knee-high, so I’ll bring my longboard so I’ll be able to catch the waves.” That morning the water resembled a mirror, and every so often a sizable stomach-chest high bomb set would roll through. They were definitely shortboardable, but I had my longboard. But when I would take a few hard strokes, stand up, and glide down the face, as though caressing the wave, and stay with the beauty of nature almost all the way to the shore, it was the most fun I had had in a while. I’m not saying that I’m going to go cold-turkey on shortboarding just because of that experience, I still enjoy riding my shortboard and gouging lips, and having the freedom of moving around to anywhere I want on the wave, but sometimes, instead of racing up and down the wave, and accomplishing quick turns, it takes a smoother line, and a conservative approach to be able to see the wave unfolding right before your eyes. It’ll re-fuel your soul, and keep you from burning out. What did the ancient Polynesians do? I bet the way they maneuvered around on a wave was similar to the way a Pelican would glide right above the wave’s face.
I guess my question to you is, why do you surf? I’m sure that the first time you rode the line, you stared at it in disbelief. You felt the energy of the wave flow underneath your feet, pushing you up making you feel light as a feather. I’m not telling you to sell all your shred sticks and buy a log, but I’m just saying that maybe, with all the tricks and maneuvers that the surf industry is making the norm, maybe we should just all take a step back and enjoy the ride every once and a while.
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Welcome to geezerhood! You’ll be on a SUP with booties and a hat in no time…
Seriously though, you are right. If you really want to re-connect, try an alaia - it’s harder than a shortboard and they are crazy fun.
Aloha, RH
It takes a lot of years, for people (including me)to understand why they surf or check the waves in the morning.good article!
some wont get it,others will.
good job,
Billy Curry
http://localsol.blogspot.com/
Love that article… It’s the reason I stay sane.. Nothing beats the feeling of just cruising down the line up on the nose of my longboard… Well, almost nothing.