there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Surfing

Global Warming and its Odd Ways - We may all be surfing indoors soon

global warming and surfingAfter about a week of flat flat flat, finally a swell has hit my part of mainland Mexico! Going a week just staring at the ocean, wishing for something to come has paid off! Yesterday, my friend informed me with the fantastic news, “Oh my god, did you see the waves today?! They look f***in rad!!” Unfortunately, my job didn’t get the heads up of the awesome waves, so the surf would have to wait til the next day. The night before I was going to surf,  I woke up in the middle of the night (I kind of live in the jungle where you can hear the crash of waves and you are surrounded by all sorts of insects and jungle life). The air was unusually calm, the bugs were biting like they hadn’t seen human flesh in years, and there was a hot (lately its been pretty chilly at night), odd, uncomfortable stillness in the air. In the morning, I woke up and it had rained! Talk about calm before the storm! Now, for all of you who live in the North, rain is very common in February, but where I live in Mexico it is almost unheard of. Something along the lines of global warming must be the cause of it, which also made last year in Mexico the coldest winter it had seen in 50 years. That’s some crazy sh*t right there! I don’t want to surf indoors because its too hot, or sunny or because its perpetually flat.

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