Surfing

Observations Of a Surfer On a Flat Day, Part Two

After a really flat day today, I thought I’d add some observational thoughts that come to me while sitting on my log:

• No matter how much I paddle north or south to catch the breaks, the waves will always break on either side of me, but not in front of me.
• Karma is alive and well in the water.  I see proof of it every day.
• I always catch the first wave in a set because I get tired of waiting and am excited to see a wave - in which case, I spend the next minutes paddling back out against all the other waves that I missed after that wave.
• Although I advocate leashes, I don’t know how mine catches everything on the ocean floor. It’s ridiculous, really.
• The sun shimmering on the ocean in the horizon is like an oasis in a desert. It never fails to deceive you into thinking there’s waves when they are mere ripples.
• I will always leave the water in a better mood than when I came in.

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