Surfing
Observations of a Surfer on a Flat Day
Deep Thoughts With Soul Surfer.
Some observations/wandering thoughts while sitting on my board while waiting for waves:
- It never fails that anyone paddling miles north or south will ALWAYS stop and sit up when they are right in front of me. Always.
- On any given day that I get out of work early, the waves will be completely flat.
- Nobody is ever home in those mansions on the bluffs. Hell, rent them out to me so I don’t have to walk miles to my truck!
- I cannot pee when sitting on my board. I’ll take a wave just to stand while walking back out.
- When someone gives me a wave they could have taken, I always seem to make some beginner mistake and fall off, and it’s always awkward when paddling back out.
- The waves are always biggest the day after I work my shoulders/chest at the gym.
- I should have always “been out here an hour ago”.
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