Funny sh!t

Once You’ve Made the Commitment

Surfing takes a ton of commitment. I’m not just talking about forcing yourself to go surfing even though you are either sore and/or hungover, I’m talking about just getting to the surf spot. Sometimes it is a death cliff where you must hold your board with one hand while grasping on to shrubbery for dear life with the other. In El Salvador, I had to cross a flowing river that went up to my chest. It wouldn’t have been so bad if there hadn’t been huge tree trunks, sticks and whatever else you can think of floating in the water with me, threatening to take me out or even worse….ding my board. A friend of mine went to a neighboring surf beach and told me that she had to swim across a chest-high, mosquito-infested swamp (it is usually an ankle-deep trickle when it isn’t the rainy season). But just like all obstacles, once you overcome them, you realize it was totally worth it and maybe not as bad as you thought. After all, good surf is hard to find, so once you find it, nothing can stand in your way!

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