there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Cool sh!t

River Surfing Never Ceases to Amaze Me

River surfing looks like fun, but there is something odd and unnatural about it. I can’t put my finger on it - maybe it’s the line up that forms on land rather than in the water. Maybe it’s the fact that it’s so type-A with its orderly lines and without any jack-asses or kooks dropping in on anyone. I don’t know, but it’s weird.

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