there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Surfing

Something in Mexico that won’t give you diarrhea, or will it?

When I first started surfing I didn’t like barrel segments in videos. At that time I didn’t know sh*t about getting tubed, and I just wanted to watch dudes rip waist high waves. The kind of waves I was surfing at home. I wasn’t fully sponsored like kids are today by age 12, and traveling all over the globe. Traveling to me was walking down to South Jetty to surf close-outs, and then jumping off the railroad tracks on the way home. Eventually I got tubed, and discovered what that looks & sounds like. Heaven on earth… Ha! Fuckin’ cheeeeese dick! But you get what I’m saying. The Wetsand website has a dope clip of the boys getting throated in Mexico, and you can torture yourself by watching that here.

Take note of the shown barrel at about the 1:24 mark. Not the deepest tube, but can you imagine what that spit must have felt like?

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