Funny sh!t

The evolution of surf from gromhood to adulthood

As my surfing has evolved from childhood, it has naturally gone through all of the necessary evolutionary steps. There were the preteen boogie board days, where I would spend whole summers laying on my stomach, riding the whitewash, or getting dumped headfirst on the sand at my local beachbreak.

Then there were the days where I started noticing some of the older boogers doing the drop-knee thang, and I did my best to emulate it, effectively managing a booger double knee ride. This was almost fun… almost. About the time I first started riding the sponge in on my knees, my head was high enough off the water to start noticing the guys who were standing up on surfboards out the back.

Stand up surfing simply looked way cooler than my belly and knee rides. Lacking a surfboard, I did what any preteen booger who longs to surf does, and began to stand up on my boogie board. Later that summer I realized just how silly boogie boards were and I knew I had grown up. I should also mention that this was the time (around 13) where I really, really started noticing girls.

And, so I started surfing. The natural path of evolution had reached modernity. I had reached nirvana. I had become a man. Unfortunately for a few of my close friends, they never quite made the leap to adulthood and are still riding waves laying down or on their knees. I can only hope that they too will one day grow up and ride waves standing up.

So what’s the next stage in my surfing evolution? Well, as I tell all those who ask…. I ever get too old to surf, I might try longboarding. But that’s another story for another day.

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