there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

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Travel Diaries: El Salvador - the end

The morning of the competition, I decided to wake up extra early to get there and surf before everything got started. The waves at the right point break were not as big as the day before, but were glassy at least. I had rented a 6′2 fish for $20 (ridiculous for El Salvador’s prices, considering you could get a huge meal for $2, but the splurge was worth it to have the board for the evening before the competition and the actual day of the competition). Anyway, I surfed a bit with some of the other competing surfers and then got out to save my energy. Soon, they called my name and gave me a red jersey. The other girls were locals and looked like they’d competed numerous times before. One girl who had won the last competition introduced herself and kindly offered a place to keep my stuff (Another example of how friendly and hospitable El Salvadorians were). Finally, it was my heat. I paddled out quickly, missed the first wave, and sat and waited for another. By this time, the waves were few and far between. I caught one, which fizzled out almost right after the drop in and cutback, so I couldn’t really do anything spectacular on it. We probably caught one wave each and then all of a sudden the time was up and I had not shown off any skills. I eventually got 4th place, good for my first competition I thought, but the fact that I can say that I surfed in a competition in El Salvador is the coolest part of all!

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