Barreled
Travel Diaries: Trip with the Surfer Family Part 1
As I have written before, I am a private teacher for a little surfer kid. One time, I got lucky enough to travel further South with their family to camp and surf. I kept a journal during the trip, so here is an edited version of the beginning:
The beach we camped at for one night
We were driving up a cliff, looking down at waves that I’ve only seen in surf videos. They were closing out fast but looked beautiful, giving me hope of what was to come. We kept driving through the mountains, sometimes seeing the beach down below for miles, sometimes only getting a small glimpse. The closer we got, the less it looked like a swell was in our favor, but I was eager to be proven wrong. As we made a turn from the highway to our destination (which remain nameless to preserve it’s purity), we ran into a hitchhiker with blonde dreads, who told us that there were barely any waves and that it was better down south. Damn. We passed through the beautifully painted plaza and already I could hear the thunder of the waves crashing. We finally reach the beach/campsite where the kids were skateboarding on a small ramp. The waves were huge, Dready was obviously smokin’ something! I’ve only seen waves like that in videos and magazines, full on barrels, one after the other, all over the place. I got my 6′3 Roberts out and followed the kid’s Dad into the water…….(to be continued)
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