there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Surfing

When gear strikes back!!! Part 3.

Surfing, as we all know, was started by the ingenious Polynesians, who figured out how to ride waves. But surfboards were still huge and bulky, and it took many generations to finally perfect (or is it?) the shape that we know and love today. The polyeurethane board with a foam core, moderate rocker, and those things that poke out the bottom called…

Fins! Yes, they let you turn. Yes, without them, surfing as we know it would not be possible, but even though they were the best innovation to the surfboard design (thank you Tom Blake!), one could not escape the inevitable truth: That when combined with the force of tons of water, and the perfect angle, they can become really sharp, really fast. People have gotten muscles gouged out by these things! Any by-passer would mistake a scar from a fin incident as a shark bite! If that’s not scary enough, it’s not only your fins that you’ve got to worry about, but other surfer’s fins become potential assaulters as soon as they are on a wave (but not always…), and don’t forget, that your beloved stick can easily become a target as well. So control your fins! Who knows what havoc you might wreak!

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Discussion

2 comments for “When gear strikes back!!! Part 3.”

  1. been there !! I think the term is “skagged” if I remember right.

    Posted by steve | June 9, 2009, 6:18 am
  2. that happened to me yesterday (thursday 6/18) and it is a awesome looking cut.

    Posted by wbsurfer | June 19, 2009, 6:40 am

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