there is usually a perfect spot to be in just in front of the breaking wave

Surfing

Why Bali is Not a Surfing Paradise: Reason 2

Reason 2: Surf cruises or chartered surf boats or whatever they’re called.

After two horrifying days in Kuta, I quickly packed everything and left for Nusa Lembongan, which I was told was a quiet little island off of the southwest coast of Bali. And it was…

…It also had three great surf breaks. The first day, all three were empty.

After thirty minutes of paddling over the seaweed farms, the once empty break became crowded as surfers were dropped off on boats from Kuta. A break once sparsely freckled with nine or so surfers suddenly transformed into a mass of fifty people all vying for a wave.

Yes, the water was warm, and yes I could see the blue starfish on the reef below, and yes the wave was picture perfect, but this was all pretty much ruined by the fifty people arguing and fighting for waves.

“Damn you Kuta!” (Said with my fist pumping the empty air).

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